Pack for the winter we actually get
Columbus does not usually get buried the way the snowbelt east of Cleveland does. What it does get is a temperature that swings back and forth across freezing, which turns wet roads into black ice overnight, glazes windshields with freezing rain, and leaves slush that refreezes into ruts on side streets. Overpasses and bridges on I-270 and I-70 ice up before the pavement around them.
That pattern shapes what is worth carrying. You are less likely to be snowed in for a day on a rural road and more likely to slide into a median, sit in a long backup after a crash, or return from work to a car that will not crank. A good kit covers warmth, traction, power and being seen. Build it in a plastic tote that lives in the trunk from November through March.
Keep the tote light enough to lift with one hand and organized so the things you need first sit on top. If you share the car with a partner or a teenage driver, show them what is inside and how each item works. A jump pack nobody knows how to use is just extra weight in the trunk.
Staying warm if the engine is off
If your car stalls or you choose to shut it off while waiting, the cabin cools quickly once the heater stops. Clothing matters more than people expect, because many of us drive in a light jacket on the assumption we will only be outside for a minute.
- A wool or fleece blanket, or an inexpensive sleeping bag. Wool keeps insulating even when damp from snow tracked into the car.
- A warm hat, gloves and a spare pair of socks. Wet socks pull heat from your feet faster than almost anything else.
- Chemical hand warmers. They are cheap, last for hours and fit in a glove box.
- Water and a few high-calorie snacks. Eating helps your body make heat, and a long backup on the outerbelt can stretch well past dinner.
Getting moving again
Plenty of winter trouble begins with a car that slid only a few feet off the pavement. With the right tools, a driver can sometimes free a car stuck on a flat, packed-snow surface without help.
- A compact folding shovel to clear snow from around the drive wheels and away from the tailpipe.
- A bag of sand or non-clumping cat litter to sprinkle in front of the tires for grip. It also adds a little weight over the rear axle of a rear-drive car.
- A sturdy ice scraper with a brush. Clear every window and the roof, not just a peephole on the windshield.
- Winter-rated washer fluid in the reservoir and a spare jug in the tote. Road salt spray can blind you within minutes on a busy highway.
Power and communication
Cold is hard on batteries, both the one under your hood and the one in your phone. A phone that dies in a ditch leaves you unable to call for help or share your location, so treat charging as part of the kit.
- A charged power bank and a charging cable that fits your phone. Top it up once a month.
- Jumper cables, or better, a portable jump pack that works without a second car. Read its instructions before you need it.
- A flashlight or headlamp with fresh batteries. Winter evenings are long, and you may need both hands free.
- A paper card with important numbers, including a tow company you trust. Our dispatch line is (614) 633-8163.
Being seen
On a gray afternoon with blowing spray, a stopped car is hard to spot until a driver is almost on top of it. Anything that makes you visible earlier buys other drivers time to move over.
- Reflective warning triangles, placed only if you can do so without walking into traffic.
- A high-visibility vest if you might need to stand outside the car.
- A bright cloth to tie to the antenna or a door handle so passing drivers and the tow crew know the car is occupied or disabled.
Getting the car itself ready
A kit helps after something goes wrong, but a short fall checkup on the car prevents a lot of winter calls in the first place. Most of this takes an afternoon or a quick stop at a shop, and October is a good month to do it, before the first frosts arrive.
- Tires: check tread depth and pressure. Worn all-seasons lose grip quickly on slush, and if you drive early or late on untreated roads, dedicated winter tires are worth pricing.
- Wiper blades: replace them if they streak or chatter. Winter blades resist ice buildup better than standard ones.
- Battery: have it load-tested. A battery that passes in October is far less likely to strand you in January.
- Coolant: confirm the mixture protects against the temperatures we see here; a shop can test it in seconds.
- Lights: walk around the car with the lights on and replace any dead bulbs, so you are visible in snow and spray.
- Locks and seals: a little silicone spray on door seals stops doors freezing shut after an ice storm.
Habits that matter as much as the kit
The tote helps once you are stuck, but a few habits keep you from getting stuck at all. Keep the fuel tank at least half full through the winter; it gives you reserve to run the heater in a long backup and reduces moisture in the tank. Check tire pressure when the first real cold arrives, because it drops as temperatures fall. Have the battery tested in early fall, a step covered in more depth in our battery and cold weather guide.
If you do run the engine for heat while stuck in snow, first make sure the tailpipe is completely clear. Snow around the exhaust lets carbon monoxide seep inside, and the gas has no odor to warn you. Run the engine in short intervals and crack a window on the side away from the wind.
When the kit is not enough
Some situations call for a truck, not a shovel. If the car is down a slope, in a ditch with a drop on one side, or stuck on a highway shoulder near moving traffic, do not try to rock it free. A winch-out pulls the car back to solid ground in a controlled way, and if anything is damaged, a flatbed can take it home or to a shop.
For a dead battery or a flat tire in the cold, our roadside assistance service handles it on the spot. If you are unsure what to do first after a winter slide or stall, our breakdown checklist walks through the order of steps.